The Bread of Life

My Parish the last two months, St. Joseph's in Peykouk

More Language Mix-ups and our Driver

Have you seen this man?  He's bad at blogging.

Superfluous sunset with palm trees.  Because why not?

Because who doesn't love baby cows?

So one thing I’ve learned while I’ve been in Senegal is that I’m really bad at blogging.  Sorry about that if you’ve been checking this blog on a regular basis only to be disappointed, anyway, here’s another post that’s just going to be things that occur to me as I sit typing this while listening to music that I’d rather dance too, and hey, maybe I am dancing, you can’t see me.

So our driver is Senegalese, and he doesn’t speak any English, and he’s a pretty awesome guy.  His name is Damesee (probably incorrect spelling…).  Even though Dame (pronounced Dom) and I don’t speak the same language, we get along grandly.  Dame, so I’ve heard is in his late fifties, but looking at him, you might guess he’s in his early to mid-forties.  Anyway Dame is a jokester, all the Wolof that I know I’ve learned from him, and it’s all pretty much food.  He loves the fact that I love Senegalese food, at least that’s what I think it is.  Anyway, food is a running source of comedy for our crew, and I am often the root of the comedy.  My love of Café Touba often prompts suggestions by he and Roger of Café Touba whenever we see some along the side of the road, and at seemingly random times, Damesee will look at me and say Café Touba (or insert other Senegalese fare here).  I will look at Damesee and respond “Café Touba neehana (spelling is probably horrendous, my bad)” or “Café Touba is good” in Wolof.  As I type it doesn’t seem quite so comedic.  However Dame and I find these exchanges to be hilarious. 

This type of exchange also led to some confusion along the lines of the candle/mango confusion of July (or was it August, I’m typing this on Word, because the internet is down, so I can’t do any fact checking, or spell checking on the Wolof, oh well, sorry if this frustrates you to no end).  So a while ago Dame taught me to say things such as, “Bread and onions” or “Mboro ac soblay” and the like.  Well he also said, “Café Touba ac maio (sounds kind of like my-o).”  Now, understand that Mayonnaise is pretty popular here in Senegal.  When he said this the first time I laughed out loud and reacted like one should to the proposition of coffee and mayonnaise, horrified (but in an altogether good-humored way).  At my reaction everyone reacted uproariously.  This particular exchange happened every so often over the next couple of weeks with the same result.  Then late one afternoon we were stopped in a village while Dame went to pick up some fresh milk.  I asked Roger what the Wolof word for milk was.  His response, “Maio.”  I immediately let out a long, loud burst of laughter.  When I stopped laughing, Nate asked me what I was laughing about.  “Café Touba ac maio,” I said, its milk, not mayonnaise!  More laughter followed this revelation.  I still find it hilarious.  Classic mix-up as they say. 

Also from Damesee I have acquired what could be my most innovative nickname yet:  Sosoblay.  This means:  Onion Sauce.  Dame noticed that I really like onions, including onion sauce, which is a common spread for ones morning baguette.  Anyway, after many hilarious exchanges involving sosoblay, it became my nickname.  Whenever Dame says Sosoblay, I can be sure that when I turn he’ll be smiling or smirking like it’s one of the most hilarious things in the world, and indeed I think it is.  Anyway Dame is an awesome guy, and along with being very nice and friendly (and hilarious in my humble opinion, I think it has something to do with the delivery) he’s also one of the best drivers we could ever have.

Not only is he a super driver, he also speaks most if not all of the languages spoken in Senegal (he speaks at least five that I know of, probably more).  So when we go into a village, he’s the man explaining what we’re up to, what we hope to accomplish, and the like.  He is indispensable to the project. 

I actually think that’s enough for one post.  One shouldn’t stare to long at a computer screen.  Why don’t you log out, shut the computer down, grab a cup of coffee or a glass of lemonade (weather depending), and go sit outside on a chair or step or whatever is handy, and just look at that tree in the yard, or the grass, or the sky, or the leaves, or perhaps your twin black Labrador retrievers Heidi and Elsa frolicking about in playful abandon (I prefer the last option).  May the Lord bless you.

Photo credit to my Mom (who recently sent me some Swiss Cake Rolls!  She's awesome!)

Breakfast

Another morning comes to ENSA, Senegal

In the morning I typically have breakfast, because that's typically the time that breakfast is had.  I will wake up then go for a brief walk, I sometimes go to a local eatery, other times I eat at the ENSA cafeteria.  My presence is such that I am now a "regular" at the local eatery.  When the proprietor sees  me coming, she knows just what to do.  Breakfast usually consists of cafe Touba/ or Nescafe with milk and half a french loaf with  chocopain, butter, or cheese.  Now you know a little more about my life in Senegal.  Go have yourself a great day and God bless you.  

Breakfast

Local Eatery: Interior

Local Eatery: Exterior

An Amalgamation

I have not been very diligent in the upkeep of this blog, so first my apologies if anyone has been checking back so often looking to see a new post.  I do not have a specific trip or anything in mind to blog about, this post is just going to be a random amalgamation of stories and thoughts that I remember as I type.

I have been very well of late, I've discovered the delightful French fried dough known beignet.  They are delightful.  Now, wherever I am, if I see or smell beignets, you can bet I'm most likely going to purchase some.  One of the things I like about beignet is that no two purveyors of beignet make their beignet in quite the same way.  There seem to be many variations on the theme.  Here at ENSA, where I reside, the beignet have some sort of filling which I suspect is a cream cheese type substance.  I say suspect because I've only seen it uncooked, outside a beignet once, and that was from a distance.  Whatever it is, it is good. 

Today has been rather enjoyable from a culinary standpoint, not only because I was able to enjoy to variations of beignet, but also because I was able to have two fresh mangoes (saving two for tomorrow).  These mangoes are truly dessert.  They're like candy, as close as you can come to candy whilst having just been pulled from the tree.  

Speaking of mangoes (ok, I had an idea of some things for this blogpost, and that is a totally telegraphed segway), I was visiting the Benedictine Abbey at Keur Moussa again a couple weekends ago, and meal time again provided some comedy.  It was time for dessert and a tray of mangoes was placed on the table, I grabbed what I thought looked like a good one and cut into it.  The inside however, didn't look right.  A part of the interior seemed to be covered in small black spots.  I held it out and looked quizzically at the Brother seated across from me (remember meals are taken in silence as one of the Brothers reads aloud), he took several moments to look up but when he did, we made eye contact, then he looked at the mango.  His faced changed in an instant to one of horror as he anxiously grabbed the mango from my hands, as if concerned that at any minute I may ravenously begin devouring the thing.  He looked very much relieved that the crisis was averted.  Suffice to say that I now know, if the mango has suspicious spots on the interior, don't eat it.

Roger found a friendly little chameleon at Nioro.

Recently we were back at Nioro for more field work, I was able to collect the second round of samples for the site there.  Before we headed there, a scientist here at CERAAS asked where we were going (we had all our gear packed and ready to leave).  We told her we were going to Nioro and she seemed surprised.  She proceeded to mention the two Frenchman who had gone this time of year in the past, and how they had returned all burnt and puffed up from the sun.  They didn't leave there rooms for a couple of weeks she said. When Roger (the post-doc who we are working with) came in she said, "This is not a nice man making you go to Nioro."  Rogers response?  "Ah!  These guys are guuyyss!!!"  I must say it's one of the best compliments I've ever received.  The field work itself went well, with the proper application of sunscreen I came home no worse for the wear.  One of the days we were on site from 5am to 8pm, it was pretty sweet. From a bright moon and stars to sunset, with several breaks for coffee in between!

From the rising of the sun to its setting.

Coffee!

I have been able to do a lot of exploring in Thies.  I've visited the Cathedral a few times, as well as the market, picking up a tea kettle and some glasses for tea.  As well as a spoon and a knife, I thought getting a fork would be superfluous.

At the Cathedral, St. Anne's

My hair is getting pretty long, sometimes I wear a bandanna to keep it out of my face.  On two separate occasions two different people have commented that it reminded them of the lead singer of Dire Straits.  Who knew Dire Straits was so popular in West Africa?

Sans bandanna.

                              

I think that's enough blogging for now!

In Nioro

So a couple of weeks ago we were conducting some field work near the town of Nioro du Rip.  Here follows an account of some of the things that occured.

So Nioro is about three hours away, we got a late start but still managed to get there by perhaps three or four in the afternoon.  After dropping our bags off at the place we were staying we headed to the field.  After  a few hours of work (installing soil moisture sensors with one of the PhD students and taking soil samples for myself), it was realized that somehow the soil moisture sensors had evaded our eager hands and managed to remain back in Thies.  It was thus decided that Nate and our driver would head back to Thies and get an early start the next morning to arrive in Nioro sometime in the morning.  They left.  After another hour or so of work it was time for us to head into town.  We walked, and walked, stopped, then walked some more.  I think it was 19km or so.  Suffice to say that when we arrived none of us felt like doing much.

Samples!!!

The next morning we began the trek back, happily though we stopped for some delicious cafe Touba and some local bread.  This bread is delicious.  It's got some substance to it.  Sometimes when I'm having French bread I'm just disappointed with how light, fluffy, not dense it is.  This local bread is fantastic.  It's one of the reasons I look forward to going to Nioro (although today the breakfast place I went to here in Thies had it, yes!).

The rest of that day was pretty uneventful if I remember correctly.  Nate and our driver returned and we carried on with the work.

One of the day's I got my first taste of the Senegalese rainy season.  I must admit, to this point I was a little disappointed.  No crazy rain or anything.  This was different.

It started out as your typical down pour.   Some big drops were falling, very windy.  That sort of thing.  I was feeling very exuberant.  We were almost done for the day.  So as we hastened to finish up I was grinning (perhaps maniacally, I like to think maybe a little) and saying things like, "Ahhh yeah, here we go!"  And as the big drops started to fall intermittently, "This is what I'm talking about!"  Then it really started to pour.  It was painful.  Have you ever stuck your arm out of a car window while driving 55mph and it is pouring rain?  This rain felt akin to that only we were standing still.  Quickly my exuberance turned to awe.  But I was still having a blast.  It was very cool.  We scampered around and finished up, with a little bit of cowering on the downwind side of the truck (where one could remain effectively out of the rain).

One of the symptoms of downpours in Senegal, at least in Nioro and Thies, is the power going out.  So on the way back to our abode, we stopped to get some candles at one of the roadside general stores.  I ran in with Roger (post-doc from the Ivory Coast, Roger is awesome.) and we purchased some candles.  We ran back to the truck where Roger and our driver, Damesee (spelling probably wrong), exchanged words in French.  Next thing I knew I was being pushed back out into the rain with a couple of Senegalese coins in my hand.  I had to get more candles.  I ran back to the store.  I saw a woman with whom Roger at spoken.  I held out the coins and said, "Candles."  She picked up a mango, and looking quizzically at me said, "Mango?"  This was going to be difficult.  I realized that it wasn't her store and went to the counter.  Tea?  No, candles.  Biskrem (delicious pre-packaged snack)?  No, candles.  Matches?  No, but now we were getting somewhere, my hand motions were working.  Then, boom!  The fellow beside me who was doing his best to help figure out what I wanted said, "Candles!", with a voice that goes with the realization of the answer to a riddle.  Yes!!!  With Damesee honking the horn I exchanged the coins for two candles and went running back into the rain.  Candles.  Mango?  All time classic mix-up.

Something else totally awesome that happened was that our Nioro field tech (no idea how to spell his name) made us tea.  And not just any tea, this was the most delicious tea I've ever had.  Steeped over charcoal under the shade of an African tree.  It was magnificent.  I have recently acquired a teapot and tried to emulate him.  Suffice to say some Senegalese got a kick out of my attempt.  But with there help, I'm getting better!

Making tea.

So that's all I think except for this fun fact.  While in Nioro we eat lunch and supper at the same place, and they have the same two options for lunch everyday, and I've known them to have three options for supper.  Luckily it's really good food!

Also, I was able to go to Mass at Our Lady of Angels, Nioro!  God is great!  God bless you!

Blessed be God forever!

Involving Benedictines

Since today is the Memorial of St. Benedict, I think it is appropriate that I relate my adventure that involved some Benedictines here in Senegal.

Abbey of the Immaculate Heart of Mary

While still in Dakar I had seen a flyer on a Church door that listed June 23rd as the date of a jubilee celebration for the 50th anniversary of the Abbey's founding.  Why that was the coming Saturday!  Jubilee!  Celebration!  Monks!  I resolved to try and get there if possible.

After arriving in Thies that week I began to plot a way to get there.  In Thies I am staying on a college campus (not more than a few hundred students) and some of the students speak English to greater and lesser degrees.  With the help of the recently befriended Gary, I was able to figure out how much a cab ride to Keur Moussa would cost (cab drivers here are notorious for demanding unrealistically high fares).  Armed with this knowledge I set out Saturday morning for Keur Moussa.  I paid only a little bit more than Gary had figured (success) and the driver was very conscientiousness of getting me right to the Abbey rather than dropping me off in the nearby town (where I had asked to go) to fend for myself.  

Upon arrival I was first struck by the dearth of people present.  I shrugged it off thinking something like, "Well, they are Benedictines, they're not known for their loud riotous celebrations."

Luckily the porter, Brother John Paul, spoke some English and he informed me that daily Mass would shortly be taking place at 11:15am.  Awesome, my first opportunity to attend Mass in Senegal!  It was wonderful.  It was all in French, though I was able to follow along with the readings in English and make most of the responses.

After Mass I was sitting in the sanctuary when Brother John Paul appeared on my right.  "You come with me." he said.  Well alright, I obediently followed as he led me into the noonday sun.  This description may be helpful in picturing Brother John Paul, he walks with a shuffle and is slightly hunched over.  While he may come across as brusque at times, he's very hospitable and compassionate.  I was very fond of him by the end of my time at Keur Moussa.  Brother JP led me to the building that housed the Abbey's store and porter's station and there left me with two other visitors who were chatting amiably in French.  They directed me to the refectory right down the hall, lunch, sweet!  After some time I wondered back out.  Everyone was gone.  Hmmm.  I noticed that the gates that led out of the building away from the monastery were shut and locked.

Trapped!

I walked back out into the Monastery grounds and began to wonder around searching for Brother JP.  I saw  him walking toward me about when he saw me and he gestured for me to come, "I was looking for you!" he said.  He took me to the Monastery's main refectory where I enjoyed lunch with the other visitors as well as the forty or so monks who live, pray, and work at the Abbey.  The monks take their meals in silence while one of the brothers reads from scripture or another sacred text.  Lunch was fish and rice.  Very good.  After lunch the visitors and Brother JP were standing about outside, one of them, Henri from Monaco spoke English.  He was able to communicate to me that Brother JP wondered if I would like to stay the night.  Certainly!

I spent the remainder of the day wondering about the Abbey grounds and attending the different hours of the day when the monks pray the Divine Office.  I was able to follow along in English, in my Liturgy of the Hours  prayer book.  The monks chant everything to the accompaniment of the Kora, a stringed instrument that to my ear puts me in mind of a harp, or perhaps a lyre.  Though I've never actually seen or heard a lyre.  It is quite beautiful.

Monastery Grounds

Monastery Cloister

Dinner that evening was especially enjoyable with my being seated beside Brother John Paul who provided me with several moments of unintentional comedy.  He was very much acting like a shepherd to me, putting the dishes in front of me and the like.  When I asked him for the hot sauce (made at the Abbey!) He looked at me as if to say, "Do you know what this is??  I don't think you know what this is..."  He then made a couple gestures pantomiming, "It's hot!"  I raised my eyebrows slightly and nodded to say, "I know."  Then he grinned and passed the hot sauce down.  It was delicious.  Later it was time to have a mango for desert.  I was hoping he would help me pick a good one (I don't know mangoes very well), so I gestured as if to say, "Which one?"  He looked at me as if to say, "It's your mango!  Just pick one!"  After dinner there was tea, Senegalese tea is delicious, I've not had it's equal in the States.  He was coaching me up on how much sugar to add, and I hadn't finished when the monks began to dismiss.  He then told me to stay till I was finished.  After I was done, I took my glass to the kitchen.  A group of the monks were washing the dishes, from the seventy-something French priest to Senegalese brothers who must have been in their mid-twenties.  They were all smiles and one young brother who couldn't have been older than I am came and politely took my glass.  Seeing them reminded me of my own home at Ohio State.  I live with nine other men who are striving to live out the call of Christ and His gospel in our lives, as these Benedictines are doing in their own lives here.  After our household dinners we too gather in the kitchen for dishes, always accompanied by joyful conversation and countenances.  You can check that out (not us washing dishes, the group we're a part of) here and here, it's a life changing organization.

After dinner it was time for night prayer then off to bed.  The monks pray the first part of the Divine Office at 5:30am. 

Rising at 5:15 (thanks wristwatch!) I got ready, grabbed my breviary and headed for the chapel as the bells began to toll, calling the monks to prayer.

The monks are able to have breakfast anytime after morning prayer till about 9:00am (with a break at 7:30am for lauds).  For breakfast, I followed the example of a monk who happened to be getting his breakfast at the same time.  French bread with some great cheese (made at the Monastery) and some coffee with milk.  I was unsure what the milk was but he added it to his so I went for it.  You see, the majority of the milk in Senegal, or at least what I've come across, is of the concentrated, powder variety.  It was a great breakfast.  

After lauds I packed up my things and hung out until Mass at 10:30am.  Again Mass was wonderful, the monks sing beautifully.  It was the Solemnity of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist.  After Mass I headed out.  I'd been there just over twenty-four hours.  But it had felt like much longer, in a good way.  The brothers who I talked to expressed that they hoped I would come back, I hope so to!  

I almost forgot to mention, upon closer inspection of this flyer I realized why there weren't many people there  for the Jubilee celebration.  See if you can figure it out.

May God bless you!

"Upon your walls, Jerusalem, I have stationed sentinels; By day and by night they shall never be silent.  You who are to remind the Lord, take no rest.." Isaiah 62:6

In Dakar

While in Dakar I stayed at one of IRD's (a French research institute that's a collaborator on the NSF project I'm a part of) installations.  It's a walled compound just off a large roundabout in Hann, Dakar.  The day after I arrived (Sunday) I was feeling really thirsty, I hadn't had any water since the inbound flight.  As they advise against drinking water from the tap (bacteria and such) I set out to find some water.  With the help of one of the PhD students I located an ATM.  Then while he went back to nap, I set off to find some water.  Unfortunately the grocery store I was directed to had closed for the day, discouraged I pondered what to do.  I promptly set off walking down a side street.  I saw a guard sitting outside a residence (a lot of residences in Senegal are walled and gated), at first I walked past.  "I'll never get any water..."  I was thinking to myself.  Then I thought something along the lines of, "I'm thirsty, here goes nothing."  Turning around I walked up to the security guard type.  He was a very nice fellow.  Didn't speak a lick of English.  After trying to pantomime drinking in several ways he pointed down to the end of the street and said American.  At the end of the street was the American Academy in Dakar!  Luckily someone was outside and they sent me back down the way I'd come to another street where there was a plywood convenience stand where I was able to by six 1.5L bottles of water.  On the way past I was sure to give the security guard an appreciative smile and thumbs up!  He smiled genuinely in return.

Also on this trip I saw what I first thought was a purple and gold squirrel or chipmunk.  Being from Ohio that's the first thing that comes to my mind when I see a small flurry of movement on the ground or on trees (or walls).  Turns out it was a lizard.  Classic mix-up as they say.   I've been trying to get a better picture but they only seem to be very still and calm when I don't have my camera.

Purple and Gold Lizard (In case you couldn't tell.)

On the way back the guard at IRD invited me to sit down and have some of their lunch, even though they spoke no English, and I no French.  People are really nice here.  They were having a fish and rice dish (very popular in Senegal), it was delicious!

While in Dakar I learned exactly what I'll be doing for my time here.  It's a project that has to do with nutrient distribution in farmers fields with the dominant variable being the presence or absence of native shrubbery (a shrubbery!!!!), the distribution of particulate organic matter around the shrubs, and also, maybe, aggregate distribution around the shrubs.

On the day before I headed for Thies I went for a walk in the evening.  It was interesting.  I felt very much an outsider.  As I was dwelling on this I came upon three kids sitting and playing in the street.  They jumped up and came running over, speaking as little French as I do they said, "Bonjour!" excitedly.  I responded in kind and we exchanged high fives.  They were positively beaming, and so was I.